Wednesday, January 10, 2007

My Turn

Well hello everyone.
I think I am finally ready to put my experiences of Paraguay into words. About time, I know. I´m afraid I don´t have the great craft of writing as securely mastered as my co-writers of this site do, but I will do my best.
The spanish keyboard is quite different down here as well- so I´m having to concentrate very hard just to find the letters I want. :)

I suppose this entry will be more of a summary, since it is now Wednesday evening, and we leave early Friday morning.

Mi familia.
I once thought I was related to everyone in the small rural town of San Lorenzo. That was 20 years ago, and now that I really think about it, it was probably true. But I did spend the first few days saying hello to those I met this time as though they were- hoping that I wasn´t offending anyone. Turns out that was probably a good way to go about things--- because even if I´m not related to them, at least they think I´m friendly.
My father had 12 brothers and sisters. My uncle Isidro´s (whom we´re staying with) wife had 17 brothers and sisters. Family gatherings around here are rather large--- so all in all, I think my philosophy of hugging and kissing anyone who is admitted into the courtyard is a pretty good one. If I recognize them... that´s even better.

San Lorenzo.
Sadly, it is no longer small and no longer rural. It has been absorbed, if you will, by Asuncion, the capital of Paraguay. The church that my grandfather helped fund and build has become a cathedral in the last ten years or so. The cobblestone streets are now mostly paved, and my uncle´s home is close to/on, a major corner where most bus, truck, taxi, and the occasional ox and horse cart traffic converge. When I was little, the little oasis on the corner was a pretty special place to me. It´s been hard to note the changes and not grieve for the spots that held memories for me. Necessity and progress have gone about their business in the wrong way, from my perspective. But being a person who now only comes down every 5-6 years, I shouldn´t complain.
I see disappointment in my father´s eyes sometimes though, on what has happened to the family property and the surrounding areas... If you knew how close my father and I are--- I guess it´d be easier to understand.

My father.
Nice bridge, huh? Papa has been exceedingly generous and thoughtful--- being the 'insiders' guide' to Paraguay. He has been equally hilarious and most definitely 'the man' around town. People just do anything for him--- he just asks, and they do. No wonder he´s a little disappointed when that doesn´t work with my sisters and me.

My father and Scot.
It must be a guy thing. But... I have learned more things from my father, about my father, through stories he´s told Scot. I just happen to be in the room or general vicinity. Go figure. They talk, they laugh, they make jokes, they debate, they wonder, they twiddle their thumbs (their own, not eachothers´,) they fix, they drink and eat, they drink more, they make fun of eachother, they make fun of Isidro or me or the average passerby, they ask questions, they talk history and politics.... I´m glad they get along.... and I get a look or comment from Papa every once in a while that tells me I chose well :)

Scot.
A champ. I don´t know what else I could do to him to make him feel more out of his element culturally.... and expect him to adjust... but he´s done extremely well. In just under three weeks he has adjusted, participated wholeheartedly, has had thorough conversations with others with and without help translating, and has won the heart of an increasing number of my relatives. Particularly when he buys the beer.

I should probably stop for now. My mother arrived today finally--- and I should spend some time with her before we leave. :) More later.

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